Caring for the Senior Pet and End-of-Life Issues

About six weeks ago, my 16-year old Akita, Tomo, passed away.  While his health and mobility had gradually deteriorated the prior 2-3 months and I knew 16 was ancient for such a large breed dog, I was still taken by surprise when I woke up to find him barely conscious.  He passed away 20 minutes later. Dealing with an aging pet entails a whole set of issues that can sometimes be overwhelming both physically and emotionally.  Moreover, when a pet dies at home, there are issues an owner needs to address that are normally taken care of by the staff at the veterinarian’s office.  Based on my experiences during the last 6-8 months of Tomo’s life, this month’s blog will address the needs of aging pets and the end-of-life issues that every pet owner will likely face.

Health, Medical and Behavioral Issues

One of the harnesses I used to help Tomo stand up

Mobility Issues: Taking care of an aging pet can be challenging.  They may have mobility issues from arthritis or illness and they may need special accommodations to help them get around.  Arthritis and spinal degeneration may also manifest itself as incontinence or soiling in the house. If you have a large dog like my 90 pound Akita, you may have to physically lift your dog to help him get around. There are special mobility aids that assist both you and your dog including: special harnesses, steps, ramps  or other lifting devices. See my article reviewing some common mobility aids.

Pain Management: An ill or arthritic pet may also be in pain. Signs that your pet may be in pain include: decreased appetite or changes in appetite, difficulty getting up, favoring a particular part of the body, decreased activity, excessive panting, hiding, being less sociable, agitation and whimpering or yelping.  It is also not unusual for dogs to become aggressive and defend their personal space when they are in pain. It is important to speak with your veterinarian about pain management options to make sure that your pet is as comfortable as possible.  

Dementia (Canine Cognitive Dysfunction): Aging dogs can also get dementia (termed Canine Cognitive Dysfunction or CCD) much in the same way that humans can.  Often the signs are subtle and people mistake them for something else.  Symptoms include:  confusion or disorientation, getting “lost” inside the house, pacing (especially at night), barking for no apparent reason, failure to recognize family members, getting stuck in corners, increased anxiousness and eliminating inside the house. Keeping  furniture in the same place can help with disorientation. Medication may be prescribed by your vet to lessen the severity of the symptoms.  However, there is no cure for CCD. 

Increased Anxiety:  Many aging pets can experience increased anxiety or agitation whether it be from CCD, loss of hearing/sight or pain.  Anxiety aids such as a Thundershirt or DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) can help calm a dog.  My dog started exhibiting occasional bouts of separation anxiety and I used a Thundershirt in combination with ambient music to keep him calm.  Many of these anti-anxiety aids are discussed in this article. 

Incontinence:  As mentioned above, your pet may become incontinent due to a physical disability or due to CCD.  If an aging pet becomes incontinent, it is important to have your vet first rule out a medical problem such as diabetes, kidney disease, spay incontinence or bladder infection.  Encouraging your dog to eliminate outside more times a day can help lessen the number of accidents in the house and in some cases your vet may prescribe medication to address this issue. In some cases, doggie diapers may be needed.

Deafness and Blindness:  Many aging pets eventually become blind or lose their hearing.  In the case of blindness, it is important not to move furniture around so that your dog will have an easier time navigating.  For blind dogs you can make your presence known by shuffling your feet or calling your dog’s name to prevent your dog from getting startled (and perhaps reacting defensively).  In my case, my dog starting going deaf so it was important for me to make sure he could see me before I used my hand signals to ask him to do something like sit, come, wait or lie down.  In addition, I would clap my hands to get his attention because he seemed to be able to still hear higher pitch sounds.  Inside the house, I would tap the floor or simply get up and stand in front of him to get his attention because deaf dogs can easily startle as well. Here are some resources for owners of deaf or blind dogs:

Deaf Dog Education Action Fund:  http://www.deafdogs.org/training/

Blind Dogs.Net:  http://www.blinddogs.net/ 

Reaction from other pets – It is not uncommon for other resident dogs to pick on an ill or aging housemate.  It is important to keep a watchful eye on their interactions and intervene if you see bullying behavior.  You may also need to set up management practices (separate feeding areas, crating, gating etc) to keep the senior dog from being harassed.  In serious cases, contact a certified dog trainer or behaviorist to help you with this issue (see my article on selecting a dog trainer).

Euthanasia/Hospice Care

There may come a time when you need to assess the quality of your pet’s life.  In my case, my dog had good days and bad days and I was constantly monitoring the number and severity of the bad days.  Although in his case, I did not have to make this decision, I have had to make this decision with other pets and it is important to be aware the condition of your pet and whether it is getting progressively worse.  Some of the issues I monitored were:  

Appetite - amount of food eaten and whether meals were missed;

Pain - whether my pet was in chronic pain and how it was affecting day to day activities and mobility;

Interactions - is my pet interacting with members of the household (human or animal) or being withdrawn?  What is the nature and quality of the interactions? Is my pet hiding or spending a lot of time alone? 

It is best to discuss these issues with your veterinarian who, other than you, can assess the physical condition of your pet.  Your veterinarian will be able to advise you on hospice care or whether euthanasia is the best option for your pet. 

These services often take place at the veterinarian’s office but there are also mobile vets who can come to your home.  This may be a less stressful option for you and your pet.  In my case, since I had such a large dog who had mobility issues, I had the number of a local mobile vet on my refrigerator door in case I needed their services.

When your pet dies at Home

It is less common for a dog to pass away suddenly or unexpectedly at home.  In my own experience, when a pet was euthanized, as had been the case for my previous pets, the veterinarian’s office took care of all the arrangements after the procedure and I did not have to worry about what to do with my pet.  However, if your pet dies at home, you will have to make these decisions and contact the appropriate facility. 

Pet Mortuaries and Crematoriums – you will need to find a local mortuary or crematorium that caters to pets.  They will come and pick up your pet and deal with the remains based on your instructions.  You essentially have two options: cremation or burial.

Burial -  Many cities prohibit the burial of animals in a resident’s back yard.  For example, in the City of Los Angeles,  “no person shall bury an animal or fowl in the City except in an established cemetery.”  Therefore, if  you want to bury your pet, you must contact one of the pet cemeteries in the city.  Burial at one of these facilities is the most expensive option.  Here are 2 cemeteries in Los Angeles:

LA Pet Memorial Park - www.lapetcemetery.com

Pet Haven Cemetery - http://www.pethavencemeteryandcrematory.com/

Cremation:  A less expensive option is cremation.  In addition, cremation gives you more options as to how you would like to deal your pet’s remains.  Most mortuaries or crematoria will do individual or mass cremations (the latter being less expensive).  If you would like your pet’s ashes returned to you, then an individual cremation would be necessary.  Often the ashes are placed in an urn or box and some companies provide a plaster cast of your dog’s footprint.  Individual cremation is the option I chose for my pets.  Here are two facilities that I have used:

Royal Pet Mortuary (Culver City) - http://petmortuary.com/

Guardian Animal Aftercare (Sun Valley) - http://www.guardianaftercare.com/

City Removal – many cities, including Los Angeles, will pick up your pet free of charge.  However, your pet's remains will not be returned to you.  Your city’s animal control department can provide more information.  In Los Angeles, the Bureau of Sanitation (not Animal Services) provides this service. 

Bureau of Sanitation:  http://san.lacity.org/solid_resources/refuse/services/dead_animal.htm

Other Pets

The other pets in your home may experience varying levels of behavioral changes after the loss of your pet.  Some pets may act withdrawn or reclusive, others may not react differently at all.  One issue that I had to address since my dog passed away at home was whether the other animals should approach him after he passed away. It was an issue I never had considered before and a cursory search on the internet did not have a definitive answer.  After discussing it with the mortuary (because they could not get to me for several hours), I decided to let my other pets approach Tomo if they chose to.  My cat and Shiba Inu did approach him while my other Akita avoided the room he was in altogether and she appeared distressed prior to and after his death.    

Although this is completely anecdotal, my Shiba and cat did not exhibit any significant behavioral changes.  My Akita, who spent a lot of time playing with Tomo, became very reclusive and spent a lot of time sleeping in her crate.  She did not want to interact with anyone the weeks following Tomo’s death.  In addition, she did not want to spend any time in the yard.  This lasted for about 2-3 weeks.  In the meantime, I tried to maintain her regular walk schedule and arranged for play dates with my dad’s dog to keep her active and engaged.  After a few weeks she started coming out of her shell and within the last few weeks she is almost back to normal. But every dog will be different and it is best to maintain your dog's usual routine and provide enough attention but at the same time not go overboard and force your dog to interact with you if he/she chooses to rest or sleep.  Sometimes, people feel like they have to keep them occupied every minute of the day but sometimes our pets, like people, need time to themselves.  

My other dog spent a lot of time in her crate after Tomo died.

Grieving

It is normal to grieve in the weeks and months following your pet’s death and you will likely go through a range of emotions from sadness to guilt and depression.  Sometimes it is helpful to commemorate your pet in some special way, especially if you have children.   In my case, I spread some of my dog’s ashes in a grotto at a favorite hiking trail. 

A favorite place where we hung out

Fortunately, there are many resources available to help pet owners cope with their loss.  Here are some resources that you may find helpful:

City of Los Angeles:  http://animalcare.lacounty.gov/bereavement.asp

ASPCA Pet Loss Hotline:  http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-loss/

Tufts Pet Loss Support Hotline:  http://www.tufts.edu/vet/petloss/

Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement:  http://aplb.org/index.php

Pet Loss.com :  http://www.petloss.com/

Rainbows Bridge:  http://rainbowsbridge.com/grief_support_center/grief_support_home.htm

Tomo in his much younger days
at a favorite hiking trail

Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

January is Train Your Dog Month

Happy New Year! January is Train Your Dog Month. In 2010, the APDT began the National Train Your Dog Month to promote the importance and benefits of Dog Training so that our dogs can be happy and healthy companions. According to the APDT “too many dogs are turned into animal shelters each year for behavior and training issues that could be easily solved with proper socialization and positive, gentle, science-based methods of training.”  Addressing behavioral issues early on and being proactive can help prevent these behaviors from turning into serious problems. In honor of Train Your Dog Month here are some dog training tips and resources:



1) Puppy Socialization: for those of you who have or are getting a puppy, socialization is one of the most important things you can do to give your puppy a head start. Socialization should start early. Even if your puppy does not have all his/her shots, you can have people come visit your home. Once your veterinarian clears your puppy for walks around the neighborhood, you can get your puppy used to the sights and sounds of a city for example. Brief car trips (to minimize motion sickness) where the puppy can stay in the car and watch people walk by is also helpful.  You don't want your puppy's early car trips to be just vet visits as this can set up a negative association. So short, fun excursions are important for early socialization.  Go slow, try not to bombard your puppy with too much at once. We want these experiences to be positive! Enrolling your dog in a well-managed puppy class that uses positive and gentle methods is one of the best ways for your puppy to get exposure to people and other dogs in a safe, controlled environment. For an explanation of why socialization is so important, here is a position paper written by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior: AVSAB Puppy Socialization Paper

In addition, here are a few of my favorite puppy books:

 




2) Rescues and Older Adoptees – many people choose to adopt older rescues. The issues rescues face are different from puppies. While rescues have outgrown many of their puppy behaviors such as play biting and destructive chewing, they may not be house trained and may have fear or anxiety issues from being in a shelter, abandonment or other stressful experiences. It is important to be patient and work through these issues at your dog’s own pace. Respect your dog’s comfort zone and work at the speed your dog can handle. Pushing your dog too far too fast can trigger fear issues and set your training backwards a few steps. If your dog is ready for group classes, then that is a good start. If your dog is very fearful or reactive, then private training may be a better first step. A great book that deals with the unique issues that rescue dogs face is Pat Miller’s “Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.”




3) Maintain Realistic Expectations About Your Dog – besides respecting your dog’s comfort zone it is also important to be realistic about your dog’s abilities and personality. Some dogs may never be the social butterfly you want them to be and are in reality a homebody that prefers human companionship. Shy, older dogs may not enjoy dog parks and in the case of some middle-aged or senior dogs, large, group classes may be too stressful. However, that does not mean you can’t find a fun activity the two of you can do together, train in other settings or find dog friends that your dog can have one-on-one play sessions with. My Shiba Inu is not that social with other dogs now that she is an adult.  Once she reached maturity, she stopped playing with dogs at the dog park and would spend the entire time sitting with strangers at the park. It was at this point, I decided that she was no longer getting that much out of being at the dog park and instead I took her on excursions in the city or hanging out in cafes which she seemed to enjoy more. Respecting your dog's physical limitations is another factor to consider.  My big, clunky 90 pound Akita is probably not the best dog for agility training (nor would I want to subject his aging joints to this particular activity). Forcing a square peg in a round hole, is not always the best for the dog and it can lead to unnecessary frustration on the owner’s part.  Try to find activities that your dog also enjoys and work at your dog's own pace.

4) Find Fun Activities to Do With Your Dog – Training is a great way to bond with your dog, but it does not have to stop there. There are other ways to spend time with your dog such as hiking, camping or playing games. If your dog is very energetic and athletic, agility or other dog sports like flyball may be a great outlet.  Try to figure out what activities your dog really enjoys. Here are some books and websites to give you ideas.







To find out more information on dog sports here are some good sources: 

Agility - http://www.akc.org/events/agility/index.cfm
Rally - http://www.akc.org/events/rally/
Tracking - http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/
Flyball- http://www.flyball.org/


5) Incorporate Training into Your Daily Routine – many of the things you learn in group class have practical applications in real life and should not end once the class is over. For example, “stay” or “wait” can apply to boundaries such as the front door or the curb and help teach your dog not to run out in traffic. Having your dog go to their bed or place is helpful when guests come to the home or when the doorbell rings. Incorporating training in your daily routine helps reinforce these behaviors so that your dog will retain these skills throughout his/her life. On walks, I practice “sit,” “wait,” “stops/halt” and recalls (“come”). Having a solid recall is one of the most important things to teach your dog and should be reinforced throughout your dog’s lifetime. If your dog has not had any training go to http://www.apdt.com/ or http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ to find a trainer or group class in your area.  

6) Keep Training Fun - I like training sessions to be short, fast-paced and fun.  Since I own Northern breeds (Shiba Inu, Akitas) that tend to bore quickly and easily, I try to keep them engaged by changing things up and keeping it interesting.  Overly long training sessions, especially for young puppies and the more independent breeds, can lead to frustration for both you and your dog. 

7) Exercise – a great New Year’s resolution is exercising with your dog. This is both beneficial for both and your dog! Exercise relieves tension and stress and stimulates your dog’s senses.


For more information on Train Your Dog Month go to:  http://www.trainyourdogmonth.com/tips/

So with this New Year why don’t you make dog training one of your New Year’s Resolutions! Wishing everyone a happy and healthy 2013.

A Few New Year's Resolutions

Happy New Year everyone! When it comes to New Year’s Resolutions we tend to focus on ourselves. This year, I decided to put together some dog-related resolutions:

1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is full grown, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before going for a walk so that they learn not to dash into the street.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk so that they learn to be calm before going out for a walk.
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.

2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.

3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.

4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy.

5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.”  For more information see my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.

6) Give my dogs some down time – sometimes it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time especially if you are working on modifying  particular behavior. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.

7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.

8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!

Do you have any New Year's resolutions for you and your pet?

Happy New Year and Happy Training!
Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Leashes are Good

There seems to be a growing trend for people to disregard leash laws and allow their dogs to walk off leash or roam their neighborhoods unattended. Several incidents happened this week which motivated me to write a blog about leash laws.  First, several clients mentioned incidents with off-leash dogs in their neighborhood that could have ended tragically. Second, a friend who lives in West Hollywood forwarded me a notice from the city informing its residents that the City of West Hollywood will be strictly enforcing the Los Angeles County Leash laws due to the growing number of complaints the city has received. The City informed its residents:

In response [to the complaints], the City has asked the Department of Animal Care and Control to strictly enforce the City's ordinances requiring dogs to be kept on a leash in public, including in public parks (the Hart Off-Leash Dog Park exempted).  Animal Control Officers have been deployed throughout the City and have issued a number of citations over the last week. 

Walking your dog without a leash is a violation of Chapter 10.32 of the Los Angeles County Municipal Code, which is enforced in West Hollywood.  Violators will be cited $250 for the first offense, $450 for the second offense, and $850 for the third.

While it may be a sign of pride that your dog can walk off-leash or it may be based on the notion, that the dog is happier off-leash, leash laws serve several very important functions which help protect both the public and the animals living within city limits.

First, leashes help keep the dog within the owner's control.  The leash will prevent your dog from getting into an altercation with another dog.  Even though you think your dog is friendly, the other dog may not be friendly or may be very fearful.  In addition, your dog may not like every dog he/she encounters. Leashes help prevent serious injuries from such encounters.

Second, not every human likes dogs.  There are some people who are very frightened of dogs and being confronted by an off-leash dog (even if friendly), can be traumatic.  In addition, children can be knocked over by a large, enthusiastic dog.  Keeping your dog on leash respects other people's space and possible discomfort towards your pet.

Third, many people are working with reactive and/or leash aggressive dogs.  Running into an off-leash dog can not only trigger an aggressive encounter, but can also set that person's training backwards.  Many of these dogs are fearful and having a predictable environment helps the dog overcome that fear.  Running into off-leash dogs when outside the safety of that dog's home can reinforce aggressive and fearful behavior.  Many of my clients who are working with their reactive dogs have had runs with off-leash dogs and it is unfortunate that these run-ins can have such a negative impact on someone's training program.

Fourth, your dog may not respond to your verbal cues 100% of the time and there is always a possibility that your dog will chase somebody's cat and do harm to that animal.  In a similar vein, your dog may chase another animal into oncoming traffic and run the risk of being hit by a car.

For people who allow their dogs to roam the neighborhood unattended, the same arguments apply.  Your dog may be hit by a car or may wander into someone else's property where there is a territorial resident dog.     Not only are there penalties for free-roaming dogs but there are issues of liability if that dog harms another person or animal or damages someone else's property.

So while many people have idealized notions of walking their dog off-leash, this is not practical or safe for a busy and crowded city like Los Angeles.  There are designated beaches and parks where dogs can safely be off-leash. Soon other cities in Los Angeles County may follow suit and begin to strictly enforce these laws.

Holiday Training Tips

Holidays are full of excitement for our pets: houseguests, turkey, ham, gifts under the Christmas tree and other temptations. Here are a few tips to keep your pet safe and happy during the holidays.

1) Holiday Decorations, Christmas Trees and Candles – Holiday decorations are full of pretty shiny things and electric cords. However, some of these shiny things can be usafe for your pet. Avoid using tinsel and glass ornaments which can be torn off the tree, broken or, worse yet, eaten. If you have a puppy, use your management strategies such as pet gates, crates or exercise pens to prevent your puppy from getting into mischief when unattended.  Make sure electric cords are tucked out of the way or otherwise inaccessible.  Candles are another hazard, make sure they are out of reach of your pet (especially cats).

2) Holiday Treats – please remember that chocolates can be harmful to dogs so make sure that holiday chocolate is out of reach and in a safe place. Even the artificial sweetener, xylitol, has been found to be harmful to dogs.

3) Holiday Plants – plants are a popular gift or decoration during the holidays. For example, poinsettia plants are an irritant and cause vomiting so make sure holiday plants are out of your dog’s reach. If you are unsure if a plant is toxic, please visit the ASPCA poison control center at: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/

4) Guests – not everyone’s dog is a social butterfly. If your dog is shy or disturbed by having so many strangers around, make sure your dog has a safe room where he/she can rest and get some respite from all the excitement. Using management strategies like baby gates can also prevent your dog from running out the door if a guest accidentally forgets to shut the door. Conversely, not everyone is a "dog person" so giving your guests breathing room to socialize and eat can make the event more pleasant and stress-free. Training your dog to go to his/her bed or place is also handy if you want your dog to hang out in a particular spot when people are eating or hanging out. If your dog needs a little more training, using short-term management strategies like baby gates can help.

5) Food on the table - again, training your dog to station himself/herself on a mat or bed while people are eating is essential.  Teaching your dog a good "leave it" cue can also help if you are vigilent.  But the reality of the situation is that you are often too busy playing the host to worry about your dog and if your dog is not that trustworthy falling back on management strategies such as crates, baby gates, the back yard or another room are perfectly acceptable options.

6) New Year’s Eve – like 4th of July, New Year’s Eve can also involve fireworks (or in some areas people firing off guns). Please keep your pet inside to avoid mishaps. If your pet is afraid of loud noises, please see my 4th of July blog for tips for the noise phobic dog: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html

Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday

and a happy New Year!

Halloween: a few safety tips for your pet

My Dog's Scout Costume

With Halloween quickly approaching, I just wanted to highlight some safety tips for our pets:

Bring your pets indoors—even if your pet is used to being outdoors, bring your cats and dogs indoors. Unfortunately, animals can be the target of pranks and teasing during Halloween, especially black cats.

Keep your pet in a safe room —little children and energetic teenagers dressed up as goblins, pirates, scarecrows or the Grim Reaper may be a bit too much for our furry friends, especially if they are on the fearful side. Sometimes, it is best to have our pets in a safe room (covered crate, a gated-off area or a back bedroom) with a stuffed Kong or bully stick. With the door constantly opening and closing, we want to make sure our pets do not accidentally run out the door.  So, keeping them in a safe room will prevent accidental escapes.

Make sure your dog has an I.D. tag and is microchipped - during the holidays is when a lot of lost pets are turned into shelters.  Pets can accidentally run out of the door either because of fear or someone carelessly leaving the door open.  Microchipping has saved many pets lives and resulted in happy returns. 

Make sure your dog knows how to "wait" behind the door or keep your dog on a leash - If your dog is going to be loose in your home (I prefer using a safe room), make sure he/she understands the cue for “waiting” behind the door and can handle seeing people in costumes. Keep your dog on a leash to prevent darting out the door. If he/she shows any signs of stress, anxiety, or aggression, put your dog in a safe room.

Keep your pet at home—Although it is tempting to have your dog go trick or treating with the kids, with so many strange looking people out and about, it can scare your dog. Your dog may panic and get loose or react negatively and nip a costumed stranger trying to pet him/her.

Go on Candy Patrol—often the day after Halloween, I find candy and cellophane wrappers on my porch and front yard. Make sure you check your home and front yard for stray candy so that your pet does not accidentally swallow it. Raisins and chocolate can be toxic to dogs as well as the artificial sweetener, xylitol found in chewing gum and other sugarless candies.

Beware of Jack-O-Lanterns & Candles—sometimes our pets are a little clueless about fire. Happy dogs with big wagging tails or cats jumping on a table can knock over a candle.   Also young animals may be overly curious and burn themselves.  Keeping your dog in a safe room can prevent these mishaps.

Some dogs hate costumes—while cute, some dogs are not very tolerant of costumes and can get cranky and snappy. If your dog looks stressed, unhappy or uncomfortable, take it off.




A bandana is as much as my dog can handle. A costume would put her in a very foul mood.

Mobility Aids for the Senior Dog

One of my akitas is about 15 years old which is extremely old for a large breed dog. I have noticed that he is more stiff than he used to be and has a harder time getting around.  So many articles are dedicated to puppies and younger dogs that I decided to devote this month's blog to addressing some of the needs of our senior pets.  With old age comes achy joints and other issues which can make our loyal friends' lives less comfortable. The first thing to do is to consult with a veterinarian to determine whether medication or other treatments are necessary help your dog with arthritis and other joint ailments.  Fortunately, there are also a number of products to assist your dog in getting around.

Lifts, Slings and Harnesses

Many large breed dogs have a harder time with mobility as they age.  Often the rear legs become weak and they have a harder time getting up from a seated or lying down position. Here are examples of a few products that give your dog a helping hand:

Help 'Em Up Harness

This harness has both a front and back portion with handles so you can lift both ends of your dog.  So for dogs that have very weak rear legs, it allows you to lift the rear end of the dog.  he construction is lightweight and minimizes the amount of material which is nice if your dog is wearing the harness for a few hours at a time.  I really liked the design of this harness and my dog tolerated the harness fairly well. I used the rear harness attachment when I needed to lift my dog into my SUV.  Given that my dog is very large and about 85 pounds, this is no easy feat.  The rear handle came in handy for these trips.  However, most of the time, I used just the front portion of the harness to just assist my dog with a little lift to help him get up from a lying down position.

Front section of the Help 'Em Up which is the portion
I used most of the time except for when I needed to lift my dog into the car. 

Ruffwear Web Master Harness

 

 

The company produces harnesses and foot gear mainly for outdoor activities but these harnesses can also be used for lifting the geriatric dog.  I tested out the Webmaster harness pictured above.  The harness provided enough support to allow me to lift my dog with little effort to get him back on his feet.  Although it has a little more material than the Help 'Em Up, this harness is still lightweight and my dog tolerating wearing it well. Ruffwear also makes a harness with a rear end support but I did not test this particular design. 

The Ruffwear Webmaster Harness - My dog tolerated this harness and it was
just enough support for light lifting to help him get off the ground.

Walkabout Harnesses

This is another company that designs harnesses and lifts for dogs.  I received a sample but it did not fit my dog so I am unable to provide any information on how well my dog tolerated this support harness.  It is more heavy duty in terms of the amount of neoprene used and there would be less ventilation compared to the other two harnesses above.

 K9 Caddy (Sling)

For those dogs that do not tolerate wearing harnesses or other contraptions, a sling is a short-term option to assist your dog with a quick lift.  There are many companies that make sling such as the Walkabout company above.  I was able to revew the K9 Caddie which is a padded sling that you can slip under your dog to lift a front or rear portion of the body or simply to support the body on a walk.

View of the K9 Caddy padded, fleece covered lining

Minimizing Slip and Slides

Often older dogs have a hard time getting up or walking on slippery tile or wood floors.  There are a few ways to address the slip and slides.

Carpet Grips

I have wood floors and area rugs and dog beds can slide around when the dog tries to get up.  One way to keep rugs and beds in place is to use an inexpensive carpet grip underneath.

 

 

Dog Booties

Dog booties with non-skid soles are another option for dogs that can tolerate wearing boots.  Like any piece of equipment, some dogs require lots of positive reinforcement (usually treats) to acclimate to wearing them. Other older dogs may not tolerate wearing them. With my old guy, it was not an issue of whether he would let me put on a bootie but whether I could find one that would fit him.  My dog has freakishly large feet and finding shoes his size was very difficult.

My dog's freakishly large, furry feet.



Ruffwear Skyliner Boots

Ruffwear markets this boot as an everyday boot suitable for senior dogs. The construction is like a tennis shoe with a rugged sole. I was able to get the boot on my dog's feet but the fit was not quite right for his shape foot. 

Meshies by Barko Booties

Meshies is a lighter weight bootie sold by alldogboots.com. My dog fit into the XXL which normally fits Great Danes and Bernese Mtn Dogs.  The mesh material is lighter weight and the anti-slide sole is less heavy duty than Ruffwear which has treads.

Dog Days of Summer

Summertime can be a fun time for you and your dog.  You may be off from work and have more time to spend with your dog. Or, you may be planning a vacation with your pet  Here are some summertime tips:


Hot Weather


Here in California, it tends to get hot in August and September.  Keeping our pets cool is a high priority.  Since I have double-coated breeds, they have a lot of fur and can easily get overheated.  Some of the symptoms of overheating include:  excessive panting, drooling, difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, weakness or collapse.  More severe symptoms can include diarrhea, vomiting and seizures.  To avoid overheating your dog, here are some tips:


1)  Walk your dog early in the morning or early evening - besides the external temperature, the pavement can get hot in the middle of the day and can burn your dog's feet.  Asphalt is even worse as the dark color absorbs more heat from the sun.  I often get questions about why their dog stops in the middle of the walk and lies down on the grass.  One of my first questions is "what time of day are you walking your dog?"


2)  Do not leave your dog in the car - I know this seems obvious but every summer there are reports of dogs dying in locked cars.  Cars, even with the windows cracked, can heat up very quickly on a hot day turning the inside of a car into an oven.  It only takes minutes for the temperature to go up 20 degrees. 

3)  Bring plenty of water on hikes - make sure you have enough hydration for both you and your dog and give your dog frequent rest stops in the shade when he/she looks tired.   Dogs have a lot of fur and only can cool themselves by panting and some limited sweating from the pads of their feet.


4) Wet your dog - if I am on a hike on a warm day,  I will often drench the back of my dogs' neck and upper back  with water to create evaporative cooling. 

5)  Keep your dogs indoors - if the inside of your house is cooler than outside, bring your dogs indoors to avoid heat stroke.  If the heat outdoors is intolerable for you then your dog is likely to feel the same way (if not more so). 

6)  Avoid intense exercise during heat waves - when we have 90+ weather, avoid intense exercise.  If your dog is elderly, overweight, has a medical condition (especially respiratory or cardiac) or very young, they are more vulnerable to the heat.

Remember, your dog has a heavy fur coat and can easily get overheated.  Imagine how hot this guy feels on a hot summer day.

Going on the Road with your pet


Traveling with your pet can be a great experience and you don't have to worry about finding the boarding facility or pet sitter.  Here are a few tips:


1) Identification and Microchipping - Make sure your dog has a secure collar with I.D. Dogs can panic in unfamiliar locations and bolt. Microchipping is also critical if you frequently travel with your pet. Lost dogs can lose their collars and most shelters and veterinarians have scanning equipment.


2) Water bowls – dogs can get dehydrated during the car ride so stop every few hours to check on their water bowls. Better yet, teach your dog to drink from a water bottle (like the type rabbits drink out of) that hooks on to the crate. I taught my older dogs to drink out of a water bottle by putting peanut butter on the nozzle. My puppy did not need any prompting.


3) Vet information – Take the number of your veterinarian as well as the phone numbers of vets in the area where you will be staying.


4) Copies of shot records – sometimes you run into a situation where you cannot find pet friendly accommodations or hotels where you cannot leave your pet unattended. In such cases you may need to put your dog in daycare if you are going to a function or will need to leave your pet for an extended period of time. Day cares require shot records so it is helpful to have them handy in case you need to board your dog. Make sure your dog is current on vaccinations especially rabies if you are going to wilderness areas.


5) Crate and Crate Cover – often I will bring extra blankets to cover the crates. Covering the crates can help quiet the dogs when they cannot settle down in a strange location. My dogs know that the blanket means they need to go to sleep.


6) Extra towels and brushes – in case your dog gets wet or dirty.


7) Flea, Tick and Heartworm Treatments– make sure your dogs are current with flea, tick and heartworm applications. Many mountainous areas and regions of the U.S. have ticks or mosquitoes that transmit heartworm. Do your research and protect your pet accordingly. Ask your veterinarian about the appropriate treatments to apply.


8) Finding Pet Friendly Accommodations – here are some of my favorite websites for finding pet-friendly accommodations:


http://www.bringfido.com/– nice search engine and photos of properties


http://www.dogfriendly.com/– this one has been around for a long time and has a good list of accommodations for hotels and restaurants.


http://www.vrbo.com/– provides list of vacation rentals if you would like to rent a home. Several dog friendly properties are available. 


The Creepy Crawlies


Fleat, Tick and HeartwormTreatments:  Summertime is also flea and tick season.  Make sure that you are on top of treating your dog against these external parasites.  Many areas also have mosquito-borne heartworm so check with your veterinarian about whether your area is at risk and, if so, the appropriate preventative to use. 


Removing Ticks:  Inspect your dog after hiking in tick-infested areas.  Ticks like to perch on the end of grassblades and other plants waiting to hitch a ride on the next warm-blooded creature that brushes by them.  If you have been hiking on narrow trails with a lot of brush, it is especially important to do a tick check.  Here is a link to instructions and here is a pictorial version on how to remove ticks but if you are not comfortable doing this take your dog to your veterinarian.  If your dog developes a rash after begin bitten by a tick, take your dog to the veterinarian as ticks can carry Lyme Disease.  Often keeping the removed tick inside a sealed container or jar of alcohol is a good idea in case you need to take it to the veterinarianfor testing to rule out Lyme Disease.


Mosquitos - as mentioned before, mosquitos are vectors for many diseases.  Make sure you don't have any standing water in your yard (even in the saucers underneath your potted plants) and if your area is particularly infested with mosquitos, bring your dog inside when they are active.


Hiking with Your Dog


We have many beautiful trails here in Southern California.  If you take the appropriate precautions above, you can have a great time hanging out with your dog.  Here are some good books on finding dog-friendly trails:


















Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

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4th of July Tips for your dog

With 4th of July just around the corner, it is important to keep your pet safe and secure.   Many dogs are afraid of fireworks.  Here are some things to keep in mind to keep your pet safe and happy this holiday:


* Avoid keeping your pet in the yard.  Fearful dogs will often try to dig, jump or climb their way out of the yard to escape the noise.  Many dogs get lost and end up in the shelter this way. 


*Make sure that your pet has proper ID in the event that he/she gets lost. Consider microchipping your dog.


*Avoid the temptation to take your dog to fireworks shows or outdoors. A fearful dog could bolt and get lost. Fearful dogs can also feel trapped and may lunge or bite people or other dogs around them. Play it safe, keep them at home.


*Keep your pets indoors and provide a secure place for your pet stay in.  This can be a crate or a quiet, pet-proofed room in your home that does not receive as much outside noise. Dogs can try to chew their way out of an area when scared so make sure it is a secure area.  Close your windows and front door to shut out outside noises.

*What if you have a new dog or puppy and this is their first 4th of July? Play with your dog. During those hours when fireworks happen (usually 9 p.m. to midnight here in Los Angeles), play games with your dog. Play fetch or tug of war. Give your dog a toy to play with or work on a Nina Ottosson interactive puzzle with your dog. Click here for examples. Interacting with you will keep your dog's mind off the noises outside and on the games you are playing with your dog. Here is an example of my dog working on Tug-a-Jug under my supervision.  She is so preoccupied with working on this toy that outside noises are unlikely to distract her:



















*Consider playing music or keep the T.V. on as background noise. There are music CDs that have been created specifically to calm dogs.  Through a Dog's Ear is an example of a CD series. 

 

 

*Alternative remedies:  For mild cases, some dogs respond well to flower essences and homeopathic remedies. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets is one of the older brands out there and can be found in most natural pet stores.  For homeopathic remedies you can consult with a homeopathic veterinarian for suggestions and dosage instructions.




*Body Wraps: many people have had success with body wraps which in effect "swaddle" your dog. I often use this product with fearful or anxious dogs. In her book, "Help for Your Fearful Dog," Nicole Wilde discusses a variety of methods of doing this and the proper way of introducing your dog to a wrap. In addition, there is a body vest marketed under the brand names, "Anxiety Wrap" and "Thundershirt" designed to achieve the same result. However, you should first acclimate your dog to the vest before a storm or fireworks so your dog does not react negatively to wearing the vest.





















*Another calming product is Dog Appeasing Pheromone that can be sprayed on your dog's bedding or used as a room atomizer.  It is usually sold in pet stores under the brand name "Comfort Zone." 





















*For severe cases talk to your vet:  for severe cases of anxiety or if your dog is at risk of injuring himself/herself, prescription medication may be necessary to keep your dog calm and safe. In such cases,  it is best consult with your veterinarian before the holiday.






My akita has mild to moderate anxiety to fireworks. I make sure that he is in a pet-proofed room with the T.V. on and the windows closed. Sometimes I will distract my pet with toys and games he likes to play.  Recently, when he is feeling anxious, he voluntarily goes in my other Akita's crate to make himself calm down.  This year I am going to put on his Thundershirt and use my Nina Ottosson Toys to keep him distracted:





Los Angeles Dog Training: www.pawsitivefeedback.com
Recommended Reading:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

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