Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Leashes are Good



There seems to be a growing trend for people to disregard leash laws and allow their dogs to walk off leash or roam their neighborhoods unattended. Several incidents happened this week which motivated me to write a blog about leash laws.  First, several clients mentioned incidents with off-leash dogs in their neighborhood that could have ended tragically. Second, a friend who lives in West Hollywood forwarded me a notice from the city informing its residents that the City of West Hollywood will be strictly enforcing the Los Angeles County Leash laws due to the growing number of complaints the city has received. The City informed its residents:
In response [to the complaints], the City has asked the Department of Animal Care and Control to strictly enforce the City's ordinances requiring dogs to be kept on a leash in public, including in public parks (the Hart Off-Leash Dog Park exempted).  Animal Control Officers have been deployed throughout the City and have issued a number of citations over the last week. 
Walking your dog without a leash is a violation of Chapter 10.32 of the Los Angeles County Municipal Code, which is enforced in West Hollywood.  Violators will be cited $250 for the first offense, $450 for the second offense, and $850 for the third.

While it may be a sign of pride that your dog can walk off-leash or it may be based on the notion, that the dog is happier off-leash, leash laws serve several very important functions which help protect both the public and the animals living within city limits.

First, leashes help keep the dog within the owner's control.  The leash will prevent your dog from getting into an altercation with another dog.  Even though you think your dog is friendly, the other dog may not be friendly or may be very fearful.  In addition, your dog may not like every dog he/she encounters. Leashes help prevent serious injuries from such encounters.

Second, not every human likes dogs.  There are some people who are very frightened of dogs and being confronted by an off-leash dog (even if friendly), can be traumatic.  In addition, children can be knocked over by a large, enthusiastic dog.  Keeping your dog on leash respects other people's space and possible discomfort towards your pet.

Third, many people are working with reactive and/or leash aggressive dogs.  Running into an off-leash dog can not only trigger an aggressive encounter, but can also set that person's training backwards.  Many of these dogs are fearful and having a predictable environment helps the dog overcome that fear.  Running into off-leash dogs when outside the safety of that dog's home can reinforce aggressive and fearful behavior.  Many of my clients who are working with their reactive dogs have had runs with off-leash dogs and it is unfortunate that these run-ins can have such a negative impact on someone's training program.

Fourth, your dog may not respond to your verbal cues 100% of the time and there is always a possibility that your dog will chase somebody's cat and do harm to that animal.  In a similar vein, your dog may chase another animal into oncoming traffic and run the risk of being hit by a car.

For people who allow their dogs to roam the neighborhood unattended, the same arguments apply.  Your dog may be hit by a car or may wander into someone else's property where there is a territorial resident dog.     Not only are there penalties for free-roaming dogs but there are issues of liability if that dog harms another person or animal or damages someone else's property.

So while many people have idealized notions of walking their dog off-leash, this is not practical or safe for a busy and crowded city like Los Angeles.  There are designated beaches and parks where dogs can safely be off-leash. Soon other cities in Los Angeles County may follow suit and begin to strictly enforce these laws.





Sunday, August 26, 2012

Mobility Aids for the Senior Dog

One of my akitas is about 15 years old which is extremely old for a large breed dog. I have noticed that he is more stiff than he used to be and has a harder time getting around.  So many articles are dedicated to puppies and younger dogs that I decided to devote this month's blog to addressing some of the needs of our senior pets.  With old age comes achy joints and other issues which can make our loyal friends' lives less comfortable. The first thing to do is to consult with a veterinarian to determine whether medication or other treatments are necessary help your dog with arthritis and other joint ailments.  Fortunately, there are also a number of products to assist your dog in getting around.

Lifts, Slings and Harnesses

Many large breed dogs have a harder time with mobility as they age.  Often the rear legs become weak and they have a harder time getting up from a seated or lying down position. Here are examples of a few products that give your dog a helping hand:

Help 'Em Up Harness


This harness has both a front and back portion with handles so you can lift both ends of your dog.  So for dogs that have very weak rear legs, it allows you to lift the rear end of the dog.  he construction is lightweight and minimizes the amount of material which is nice if your dog is wearing the harness for a few hours at a time.  I really liked the design of this harness and my dog tolerated the harness fairly well. I used the rear harness attachment when I needed to lift my dog into my SUV.  Given that my dog is very large and about 85 pounds, this is no easy feat.  The rear handle came in handy for these trips.  However, most of the time, I used just the front portion of the harness to just assist my dog with a little lift to help him get up from a lying down position.

Front section of the Help 'Em Up which is the portion
I used most of the time except for when I needed to lift my dog into the car. 

Ruffwear Web Master Harness
 
 

The company produces harnesses and foot gear mainly for outdoor activities but these harnesses can also be used for lifting the geriatric dog.  I tested out the Webmaster harness pictured above.  The harness provided enough support to allow me to lift my dog with little effort to get him back on his feet.  Although it has a little more material than the Help 'Em Up, this harness is still lightweight and my dog tolerating wearing it well. Ruffwear also makes a harness with a rear end support but I did not test this particular design. 

The Ruffwear Webmaster Harness - My dog tolerated this harness and it was
just enough support for light lifting to help him get off the ground.

Walkabout Harnesses

This is another company that designs harnesses and lifts for dogs.  I received a sample but it did not fit my dog so I am unable to provide any information on how well my dog tolerated this support harness.  It is more heavy duty in terms of the amount of neoprene used and there would be less ventilation compared to the other two harnesses above.

 K9 Caddy (Sling)

For those dogs that do not tolerate wearing harnesses or other contraptions, a sling is a short-term option to assist your dog with a quick lift.  There are many companies that make sling such as the Walkabout company above.  I was able to revew the K9 Caddie which is a padded sling that you can slip under your dog to lift a front or rear portion of the body or simply to support the body on a walk.

View of the K9 Caddy padded, fleece covered lining

Minimizing Slip and Slides

Often older dogs have a hard time getting up or walking on slippery tile or wood floors.  There are a few ways to address the slip and slides.

Carpet Grips

I have wood floors and area rugs and dog beds can slide around when the dog tries to get up.  One way to keep rugs and beds in place is to use an inexpensive carpet grip underneath.

 


Dog Booties

Dog booties with non-skid soles are another option for dogs that can tolerate wearing boots.  Like any piece of equipment, some dogs require lots of positive reinforcement (usually treats) to acclimate to wearing them. Other older dogs may not tolerate wearing them. With my old guy, it was not an issue of whether he would let me put on a bootie but whether I could find one that would fit him.  My dog has freakishly large feet and finding shoes his size was very difficult.

My dog's freakishly large, furry feet.


Ruffwear Skyliner Boots

Ruffwear markets this boot as an everyday boot suitable for senior dogs. The construction is like a tennis shoe with a rugged sole. I was able to get the boot on my dog's feet but the fit was not quite right for his shape foot. 




Meshies by Barko Booties

Meshies is a lighter weight bootie sold by alldogboots.com. My dog fit into the XXL which normally fits Great Danes and Bernese Mtn Dogs.  The mesh material is lighter weight and the anti-slide sole is less heavy duty than Ruffwear which has treads.



Monday, July 2, 2012

Dog Days of Summer

Summertime can be a fun time for you and your dog.  You may be off from work and have more time to spend with your dog. Or, you may be planning a vacation with your pet  Here are some summertime tips:


Hot Weather


Here in California, it tends to get hot in August and September.  Keeping our pets cool is a high priority.  Since I have double-coated breeds, they have a lot of fur and can easily get overheated.  Some of the symptoms of overheating include:  excessive panting, drooling, difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, weakness or collapse.  More severe symptoms can include diarrhea, vomiting and seizures.  To avoid overheating your dog, here are some tips:


1)  Walk your dog early in the morning or early evening - besides the external temperature, the pavement can get hot in the middle of the day and can burn your dog's feet.  Asphalt is even worse as the dark color absorbs more heat from the sun.  I often get questions about why their dog stops in the middle of the walk and lies down on the grass.  One of my first questions is "what time of day are you walking your dog?"


2)  Do not leave your dog in the car - I know this seems obvious but every summer there are reports of dogs dying in locked cars.  Cars, even with the windows cracked, can heat up very quickly on a hot day turning the inside of a car into an oven.  It only takes minutes for the temperature to go up 20 degrees. 

3)  Bring plenty of water on hikes - make sure you have enough hydration for both you and your dog and give your dog frequent rest stops in the shade when he/she looks tired.   Dogs have a lot of fur and only can cool themselves by panting and some limited sweating from the pads of their feet.


4) Wet your dog - if I am on a hike on a warm day,  I will often drench the back of my dogs' neck and upper back  with water to create evaporative cooling. 

5)  Keep your dogs indoors - if the inside of your house is cooler than outside, bring your dogs indoors to avoid heat stroke.  If the heat outdoors is intolerable for you then your dog is likely to feel the same way (if not more so). 

6)  Avoid intense exercise during heat waves - when we have 90+ weather, avoid intense exercise.  If your dog is elderly, overweight, has a medical condition (especially respiratory or cardiac) or very young, they are more vulnerable to the heat.

Remember, your dog has a heavy fur coat and can easily get overheated.  Imagine how hot this guy feels on a hot summer day.


Going on the Road with your pet


Traveling with your pet can be a great experience and you don't have to worry about finding the boarding facility or pet sitter.  Here are a few tips:


1) Identification and Microchipping - Make sure your dog has a secure collar with I.D. Dogs can panic in unfamiliar locations and bolt. Microchipping is also critical if you frequently travel with your pet. Lost dogs can lose their collars and most shelters and veterinarians have scanning equipment.


2) Water bowls – dogs can get dehydrated during the car ride so stop every few hours to check on their water bowls. Better yet, teach your dog to drink from a water bottle (like the type rabbits drink out of) that hooks on to the crate. I taught my older dogs to drink out of a water bottle by putting peanut butter on the nozzle. My puppy did not need any prompting.


3) Vet information – Take the number of your veterinarian as well as the phone numbers of vets in the area where you will be staying.


4) Copies of shot records – sometimes you run into a situation where you cannot find pet friendly accommodations or hotels where you cannot leave your pet unattended. In such cases you may need to put your dog in daycare if you are going to a function or will need to leave your pet for an extended period of time. Day cares require shot records so it is helpful to have them handy in case you need to board your dog. Make sure your dog is current on vaccinations especially rabies if you are going to wilderness areas.


5) Crate and Crate Cover – often I will bring extra blankets to cover the crates. Covering the crates can help quiet the dogs when they cannot settle down in a strange location. My dogs know that the blanket means they need to go to sleep.


6) Extra towels and brushes – in case your dog gets wet or dirty.


7) Flea, Tick and Heartworm Treatments– make sure your dogs are current with flea, tick and heartworm applications. Many mountainous areas and regions of the U.S. have ticks or mosquitoes that transmit heartworm. Do your research and protect your pet accordingly. Ask your veterinarian about the appropriate treatments to apply.


8) Finding Pet Friendly Accommodations – here are some of my favorite websites for finding pet-friendly accommodations:


http://www.bringfido.com/– nice search engine and photos of properties


http://www.dogfriendly.com/– this one has been around for a long time and has a good list of accommodations for hotels and restaurants.


http://www.vrbo.com/– provides list of vacation rentals if you would like to rent a home. Several dog friendly properties are available. 


The Creepy Crawlies


Fleat, Tick and HeartwormTreatments:  Summertime is also flea and tick season.  Make sure that you are on top of treating your dog against these external parasites.  Many areas also have mosquito-borne heartworm so check with your veterinarian about whether your area is at risk and, if so, the appropriate preventative to use. 


Removing Ticks:  Inspect your dog after hiking in tick-infested areas.  Ticks like to perch on the end of grassblades and other plants waiting to hitch a ride on the next warm-blooded creature that brushes by them.  If you have been hiking on narrow trails with a lot of brush, it is especially important to do a tick check.  Here is a link to instructions and here is a pictorial version on how to remove ticks but if you are not comfortable doing this take your dog to your veterinarian.  If your dog developes a rash after begin bitten by a tick, take your dog to the veterinarian as ticks can carry Lyme Disease.  Often keeping the removed tick inside a sealed container or jar of alcohol is a good idea in case you need to take it to the veterinarianfor testing to rule out Lyme Disease.


Mosquitos - as mentioned before, mosquitos are vectors for many diseases.  Make sure you don't have any standing water in your yard (even in the saucers underneath your potted plants) and if your area is particularly infested with mosquitos, bring your dog inside when they are active.


Hiking with Your Dog


We have many beautiful trails here in Southern California.  If you take the appropriate precautions above, you can have a great time hanging out with your dog.  Here are some good books on finding dog-friendly trails:


















Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com
'

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

How to teach your cat (or dog) to sit



Despite what most people believe, cats can be quite trainable.  My cat is clicker-trained and has picked up on almost all the same behaviors that I have taught my dogs in my group classes.  Since this is adopt-a-cat month, here is a link to the first how-to video on training your cat to sit on cue:


http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com/videos/catsit/trainingsit.swf





Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com
'

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Environmental Enrichment for Cats Part 2

In Part 1 we explored the use of interactive toys and food dispensers to provide your indoor cat with more mental and physical stimulation.  In part 2 we will talk about how to enrich your cat's physical environment.

Letting Your Cat Go Outdoors Without all the Risks.

As I mentioned in my last post, outdoor cats face significant risks from being killed by vehicles, dogs, wildlife like coyotes and disease.  Cats also kill wildlife.  So how can we provide our cats with the benefits of being outdoors without all the risks?

1) Harness Training

Here is my cat hanging out with the dog
on the patio (above)
and in the garden (below)
One way is to teach your cat to wear a harness.  While my cat was still a kitten, I started putting a harness on her.  She is very food motivated so I gave her lots of treats while the harness was on and also distracted her with toys and play. 
Eventually, the harness started to signify that she was going outdoors (a life reward) so she started to develop a positive association with the harness because she love do hang out in the yard with us.  We put the harness on a leash and tether the leash to piece of furniture while we hang out outside.  Tethered animals should never be left alone unsupervised.  They can get tangled in the leash.

This method allows the cat to get sunshine and explore the outdoors supervised.  Special, lightweight cat harnesses can be found at most pet stores.  Many come with a light weight leash. The main thing is to check for a snug (but not overly tight fit) so the cat cannot slip out of the leash. I make sure two fingers can easily slip under the straps with no extra room. Cats are more flexible than dogs and can easily wiggle out of harnesses.

2) Outdoor Cat Runs

You can also construct window perches and cat runs that allow your cat to have access to the sunshine and outdoors.  There is one house in Beverly Hills where the owners have constructed an elaborate series of ramps and runs that encircle the outside of their home.  I had the opportunity to see this house during the Theodore Payne Garden Tour a few years ago.  The family lives in a hilly area of Beverly Hills that is frequented by hawks, coyotes and even the occasional bobcat.  Not a hospitable place for outdoor kitties. The pictures below do not convey how elaborate and extensive this cat run system is.






To see the original LA Times article and additional photos regarding this property, click here.

Creating 3-Dimensional Indoor Environments

To me, a major difference between cats and dogs is that a dog's world is more "two-dimensional" whereas a cat's world is more "three-dimensional."   Cats like to climb and be in high places.  Much to many owners' chagrin, cats take advantage of ledges, shelves, countertops and the tops of refridgerators often knocking over belongings (usually made out of glass or china) in the process. 

You can construct a series of perches and ramps inside the cat's room to make it more interesting.  Cat trees provide cats with different levels.  Moreover, cat furniture is often covered with carpet so they also serve as a scratching post. You can also provide cat shelves where cats can perch.  Here are some inspired and creative examples of enriching your cat's indoor environment without damaging your belongings:


This cat shelf design is discussed at http://www.home-designing.com/2009/03/spaces-for-pets-at-home



For more info on this DIY project go to:  http://www.moderncat.net/2008/08/17/diy-cat-shelves-for-a-modern-loft/


These projects can be inexpensive if you are handy with a power drill and leveler. You can get basic particle board shelving from the hardware store and carpet remnants are fairly inexpensive. 

So get creative and think of ways to keep your kitty entertained!



Los Angeles Dog Training:  www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Environmental enrichment for indoor cats



Indoor cats need exercise and mental stimulation

I have owned many cats in my life.  The ones who stayed indoors or stayed close to home died of old age and diseases associated with old age.  The ones who tended to roam often met with tragic ends earlier in life (hit by car, attacks by other animals etc).  So personally, I have opted to keep entirely indoor cats because of this experience and the last two cats (which includes a current one) live inside the house.

In fact, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) encourages veterinarians to educate their clients and the public about the dangers associated with allowing cats unlimited access to the outdoors. According to the AVMA:
Free-roaming cats may be exposed to injury, suffering, and death from vehicles; attacks from other animals; human cruelty; poisons; and traps. Additionally, these cats are more likely to be exposed to feline-specific and zoonotic diseases, and will prey on and can negatively impact native wildlife populations.
One of the challenges of having an indoor cat is making sure that they have enough physical exercise and mental stimulation.  Indoor cats are often sedentary and obese which are risk factors for diabetes.


There are many ways to enhance a cat's environment so that they do not become bored or inactive. My current tortoiseshell kitty needs lots of mental stimulation (Did I say lots?  I meant tons). Otherwise, she gets into all sorts of trouble in the house.   Since June is "adopt-a-cat" month, we will explore some ways to enrich your cat's life.  One thing that you can do is get rid of that food bowl and use interactive toys so that your cat has to "hunt" for her meal.  There are many interactive toys for cats on the market and even some dog toys work just as well for cats.  Here is a video showing how some of these food dispensers work:




Here are some links to the more common cat and dog toys that you can use for your cat:

Twist and Treat by Premier

In the video above, I used the small dog twist and treat.  There is a cat version as well but it is made out of slippery plastic instead of rubber.  I like the slightly larger dog version because it does not get under furniture so easily.  I also like the twist and treat shape better (regardless of whether it is the cat or dog version) because it does not roll under furniture as much as the round, ball type toys.

        


Slimcat

This is another food dispenser for cats.  This one has adjustable openings to accommodate different sized kibble.  Because of the shape it rolls around more which means more running around for your cat but it can also get lost under furniture.







Nina Ottosson Puzzles



These puzzles were designed for dogs but work just as well for cats.  They stimulate your cat's tendency to explore crevices and openings.  My cat loves these puzzles.








Kong Cat Wobbler

This is another toy I recently purchased for my cat although it was not featured in the video.  She also enjoys using this toy.  It does not move around as much as the other toys in terms of distance but it keeps the cat engaged and can help slow down eating.  Because my cat is used to puzzle toys, she figured out how to use this one fairly quickly.  As you can see from the video, I also use more than one toy at any given time so she does not get bored.







Have you used any interactive toys with your cat?  If so, which ones?  Next time we will talk about training your indoor cat as a way of increasing mental stimulation. 








Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Friday, May 25, 2012

Are you Dog Savvy? Take the Bite Prevention Quiz




For the final installment of Dog Bite Prevention Week, I prepared a video presentation and quiz based on the previous 3 articles (click on the links below if you have not already read these articles): 
Ready?  Click on the link below to launch the presentation and quiz!

http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com/videos/dogbite/index.htm


Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com/

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Dog Bite Prevention: How to Greet a Dog


This week is Dog Bite Prevention Week and here are a few tips on greeting dogs.

Be on the Lookout for Stress Signals
In my last blog on Canine Body Language I went over some of the common postures and stress signals that dogs exhibit.  Here are a few signals to be on the look out for:
  • frequent yawning
  • licking lips
  • ears pulled back
  • pacing
  • panting.
 In a similar vein, learn a dog's aggressive stances.  This could include:
  • stiff body or very still body
  • ears forward
  • body leaning forward
  • hackles raised
  • tight/closed mouth
  • hard stare
  • Whites of eyes showing (also sign of stress)
  • curled lip
  • growling and snarling. 
Here is a video showing some common stress signals:








For Dog Owners:  If you have a dog that is shy, fearful or aggressive, here are a few tips to keep in mind if you see these signs in your dog:
  • Recognize and respect these signals and remove your dog from the situation that is causing stress by increasing the distance from the person or walking away.
  • Response to pushy strangers - Often you run into the person who tells you that they "know all about dogs," and try to approach your dog.  If your dog is known to be scared of stangers, tell the stranger that "my dog is in training and cannot be petted right now."   These are the type of people that will invade your dog's space and not respect the dog's signals. If they will not listen, walk away. Don't worry about offending a stranger. Your dog's well-being is more important. 
  • Give your dog a safe zone - if your dog is fearful in the home, it is important to tell guests to give your dog space, not to hover over the dog or stare at your dog.  If having guests over is too much, it is often better allow the dog to go his/her safe place, crate or behind a baby gate to minimize stress and the risk that a guest may disregard your instructions.
  • Guests in the home should not grab, hug, or forcibly try to move your dog off furniture.  Rubbing the belly can also trigger defensive behavior in a fearful dog who does not know or trust your visitor.  This is especially true for children who often like to try to hug unfamiliar dogs. If guests cannot follow these instructions, put your dog in another room or area.
  • Find a certified trainer - If your dog is frequently afraid of strangers, work with a dog trainer or behaviorist to develop a behavior modification program to help your dog feel more at ease around strangers.  It is important to choose a professional who focuses on positive reinforcement methods. 
For people greeting an unfamiliar dog:  if you meet someone else's dog exhibiting these signals when you approach them, stop and slowly back off to give the dog more space.  As a parent visiting someone's home, teach children not to grab or hug unfamiliar dogs.  If you see that the dog is showing stress in someone else's home, ask that the dog be placed in another room away from the children.






 Appropriate Greetings and Interactions
Besides being able to read a dog's body language or stress signals, another factor that can reduce the incidence of dog bites is knowing how to greet a dog in a manner that will put the dog at ease.  Here are a few tips:
1) Stop 5-6 feet in front of the dog and owner.  This is usually the distance that a dog is comfortable with and is also the length of most leashes if the dog is on a walk.
2)   Ask the owner if you can pet the dog.  If the owner hesitates or says the dog is not always friendly, move on.  If you are the owner and you notice that your dog is fearful or showing stress signals, ask the person to stop moving forward and refrain from reaching towards your dog.  For parents, stress this step to your children.  They should never pet a dog without asking permission.
3)  Turn your side to the dog  - dogs are often more comfortable when your side is facing them rather than facing them head on.   By turning your side to the dog, it makes them more comfortable to approach you.
4) Let the dog approach you - rather than going towards the dog and invading his/her space, let the dog choose to approach you and sniff the top of your closed hand.  If the dog does not want to approach you or shows you the stress signals mentioned above, then leave the dog be and do not try to pet the dog. 
5) Avoid Hovering and pet the side of the body or neck - avoid blind spots like the top of the head. Fearful/shy dogs do not like to be petted on top of the head and do not like people hovering directly over them.

Here is a video showing the steps:


It is also important for new puppy owners to make an effort to enroll their dogs in a puppy socialization class and socialize their dogs to as many different people as possible (gender, age, height etc). Through education of dog owners and dog greeters alike, hopefully we can help reduce the incidents of dog bites, interact with unfamiliar dogs appropriately and learn to recognize the signs of fear and discomfort in our dogs.

Los Angeles Dog Training:  www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Harnesses, Martingales, Gentle Leaders, Oh My!

As a dog trainer, I feel compelled to try all the various no pull harnesses and collars on the market so that I can give an educated or (at least a first-hand opinion about how they compare). Owning two Akitas, I am fortunate enough to have dogs that are powerful and have a natural tendency to pull so they have been my guinea pigs so to speak. Here is the rundown and review of what harnesses I have tried and my personal opinion on the pros and cons of each:

Freedom Harness by Wiggles, Wags and Whiskers

This harness may be my favorite. I was introduced to this harness by Fabienne Lawrence at Bam Bam and Friends who carries this harness (I have not seen it anywhere else in Los Angeles). It is also a front-clipping harness like the easy walk but slightly different construction.



Here is Kiku wearing the Freedom Harness. The leash that comes with the harness makes it a versatile piece of equipment.

Pros: Works well on most dogs and cuts down on pulling. Like the Easy Walk, there is no breaking in period because the dog is more likely to accept this harness. The body strap is made out of velvet and softer than the Easy Walk. It comes with a lead that has a double clip and it can clip to D-rings in the front and on the back. The lead is adjustable from a 3-foot traffic lead to a 6-foot lead. The chest strap fits better than the Easy Walk (at least on my dogs).

Cons: pricier than the Easy Walk. Hard to find at pet stores (in Culver City at Bam Bam & Friends or online at Wags, Wiggles & Whiskers ).




Easy Walk Harness

Tis harness ranks high on my list of no-pull equipment.



Pros: Works well on most dogs and cuts down on pulling. No breaking in period as most dogs take to them readily, easy to use and effective on most dogs. It is easy to find at most pet stores and not that expensive.

Like the Freedom Harness, I use Easy Walks on some of the rescues I work with because of the ease of use and acceptance by the dog.

Cons: the chest strap does not fit well on dogs that do not have broad or protruding chest. In such cases, I clip the front d-ring to the neck collar with a carabiner to keep the front strap from dropping too low. The Freedom Harness tends to be a better fit with most dogs especially ones with narrow chests.




Here is Kiku wearing an Easy Walk harness which is attached to the neck collar with a carabiner to help hold it up.


Sporn Halter (with sheepskin covers)




Pros: cuts down on pulling surprisingly well (at least with my dog), no break-in period.

Cons: cumbersome to put on and take off, too many clips and moving parts (not good for furry dogs because hair can get caught), sheepskin covers slip and move too easily. Less control for reactive dogs.



Here is Kiku sporting a Sporn harness on a hike at Will Rogers State Park.

Sporn Simple Control Harness




Pros: Easier to put and take off than the Sporn halter, no break-in period.

Cons: Experienced more pull than with other harnesses.


Sporn Mesh Control Harness



Pros: Seems easier to put on and take off than the Sporn Halter. Decent job at reducing pull. No break-in period.

Cons: the mesh panel in the front did not fit well (on my dogs).

Gentle Leader

Gentle Leaders are not my first “go to” piece of equipment. But there are times when it may work better on certain dogs and for certain owners. I recently recommended a Gentle Leader for a client that had limited mobility due to a recent knee surgery and who had a very large dog. In this case, I felt the better control the Gentle Leader provided was warranted given the size of the dog and recent surgery. Sometimes, I also use this harness on a more reactive dog.



Pros: significantly cuts down on pulling, good control over the dog’s movements, a good option for reactive dogs or for people who are not that strong.

Cons: requires an adjustment period for many dogs, many dogs do not like the sensation of something over their mouth. People think the dog is wearing a muzzle and their fear of the dog will be expressed through body language and facial expressions.

However, one of the reasons, that I do not use the Gentle Leader very often, which is leading me to the “oh my” part of this piece is that, despite the fact that this product has been on the market for nearly two decades, people still mistake the nose loop for a muzzle. This causes people to recoil from the dog (especially when the dog is a large breed dog that has prick ears and looks like a wolf). When you see a golden retriever wearing a gentle leader that is one thing, but an Akita wearing a Gentle Leader causes people to side-step the poor dog and treat the dog like a pariah. For a young dog that needs to be socialized, this is not the reaction you want the dog to get from people the dog is trying to be friendly with. When my white Akita is wearing her Freedom harness, she receives smiles and requests from people to pet her. When she is wearing a GL, she receives sideways glances and people trying to avoid her. Because of this reaction, she rarely wears a GL because socialization is a high priority for this breed. So, there is a trade-off between control and managing reactivity and socialization with strangers.

Martingale collar

This is a nylon collar with a limited constriction on the neck. My Shiba Inu, who is an escape artist wears one. She does not pull so there is little pressure applied to her neck and I never jerk on her collar. This collar is better than a choke collar because the amount the collar tightens is limited and does not choke the dog if fitted properly. It is also good for dogs that have narrow heads like greyhounds or whippets.




Pros: prevents accidental slippage for dogs with narrow heads or who are escape artists.

Cons: does not necessarily cut down on pulling.

Choke chains/training collars/prong collars

Although I have used choke collars many years ago on dogs that have long since passed on, I don’t use them currently. Most people do not know how to use them properly and because of this, the risk of injury on the dog is too great. Moreover, dogs tend to pull more when pressure is applied to the neck, so I find the no-pull harnesses to be a safer and more effective way to discourage pulling. More importantly, why train dogs by putting pressure on their necks or choking them when you can use positive methods to teach them to walk on a leash. For these reasons, many trainers, including me, discourage the use of choke chains. See APDT UK's Brochure on choke collars here.


Los Angeles Dog Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.com

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Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Potential Gentle Leader Defect

For those of you who purchased a Gentle Leader between August 2011 and May 2012, Premier has announced that there is a potential defect in the neck clasp.  Here is what has been announced on their website:

Announcement about Gentle Leaders

It has come to our attention that specific Gentle Leader® Headcollars, sold from August 2011 – May 10, 2012, may have a defect in the quick release neck strap buckle, which causes an unintended release. The issue has been corrected. We recommend that all Gentle Leader Headcollars purchased during and prior to this period be inspected. We will replace any that contain the defect. We take this matter seriously and apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and appreciate your cooperation. Click on the appropriate link for a list of affected product, instructions on how to check your MCP/ICP labels if you are a wholesale customer, and defect testing instructions - images and video are both available. If you have any questions or need to exchange a defective Gentle Leader Headcollar, please email us at info@premier.com or follow one of the options below:

If you are a wholesale customer, call 800-933-5595 and press 1 for Sales.
If you are an end consumer, call 800-933-5595 and press 2 for Customer Care.

Announcement and details can be found at:  http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=about/premier/rsc/gl

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Respect the Growl - what to do when your dog (or parrot) growls at you


Sometimes my parrot growls at me. Yes, I said “parrot” and “growl” in the same sentence.  Parrots do growl and this one was not imitating a dog.  She was playing with a toy and when I reached out to pet her, she gave a distinct growl and flashed her pupils at me.  This dilation and constriction of the pupils is called “eye pinning” or “eye flashing” and it can mean excitement, curiosity or aggression in parrot body language, which is not very helpful by itself unless you look at the context of this behavior and other visual signs such as raised feathers, stiff body etc. 

So, like any good animal trainer, I stopped what I was doing, waited for the bird to fold down her feathers and relax.  Then once she was relaxed, I slowly withdrew my hand and analyzed the situation.  Had I proceeded, I would have likely gotten a bite on the finger or at minimum an attempt on her part to strike out at me with an open beak as a further warning to back off. 
The bird’s display conveyed a very important message.  The growl meant “back off, you are making me uncomfortable.”  I noticed that anytime her mouth was occupied with something, whether it was a toy, a stick or food, she did not want to be touched.  This was important information.  Was the parrot trying to “dominate me”?   I doubt it.   Was she trying to guard her toy?  Unlikely, since I can take toys and food away from her at other times.   Does this mean that the parrot is not fully hand-tamed and may not be comfortable being touched when that very important beak is otherwise occupied? This is a more likely and plausible explanation.  Will I respect the growl?  Absolutely.

This incident made me wonder why is it that when a parrot or cat makes a warning display like a growl or a hiss, we humans immediately respect the warning and don’t press forward or punish the animal.  Most people would not assume that the cat or bird was trying to dominate them and would not take it that personally.  After all, they are just being a bird or a cat.  Why is it that we take it so personally when a dog growls and feel compelled to punish the growl?  Is it because we expect them to be our “best friend” rather than just like any other animal that has the potential to be scared or threatened? 
Should we scold or reprimand a dog for growling?  There are several reasons for not punishing an animal when he/she is exhibiting a warning signal.

Suppressing a warning signal leads to escalation.  First, and perhaps most importantly, when we try to suppress a low level warning signal such as a growl or lip curl, the animal learns that this initial warning is ineffective and is being ignored.  When this initial warning goes unheeded, the animal may bypass this step in future encounters and go straight to DEFCON 1, the Bite.  Warning signals such as growls, hissing, and lip curling are valuable pieces of information.  It is the animal’s way of telling us, “I am really uncomfortable with what you are doing right now and please stop before I have to escalate.”  By trying to suppress this behavior, we are actually encouraging the dog to exhibit more aggressive forms of behavior.

Punishment reinforces fear and defensive behavior.  Second, punishing an animal for exhibiting a warning signal reinforces the animal’s perception that there is indeed something to be threatened about.  The animal is trying to communicate, “back off’ and if the intended recipient of that signal does not back off and instead retaliates the animal will in turn escalate the encounter by biting.  Tactics such as yelling, pinning a dog to the ground, staring down a dog or grabbing them by the scruff are actually counter-productive and can increase aggression in an animal.  For studies that support this contention see my article on the risks of using aversives in training. 

Punishment may create unintended consequences.  Third, you may be unintentionally creating a negative association with whatever the dog is growling at or threatened by.  For example, if the dog growls at a certain person who enters the room and you punish the dog whenever this happens, this can reinforce the dog’s perception that when that person is in the room, bad things happen.
Punishment erodes trust.  Fourth, punishment makes the animal more defensive in your presence and this erodes the bond of trust that should exist between you.  For example, if I punished the bird for growling at me whenever there was a toy in her mouth, then the bird would be very distrustful of my presence anytime she wanted to pick up a toy to play with.  For an animal that is not fully tamed, this would severely set back any trust-building that we had previously developed.

So, what should you do if your pet growls at you? 

1)   Stop & Withdraw.  Immediately stop what you are doing.  Do not move forward so the behavior does not escalate.  If you are fairly far away or if the growl is clearly a warning, wait for your pet to relax.  Once your pet relaxes, carefully, withdraw your hand or move back.  If the growl appears intense, you are very close to the dog or a bite seems imminent, play it safe and stop what you are doing and withdraw.

2)   Identify the triggers.  Once you withdraw, analyze the situation.  What was the animal doing before the growl?  Was the animal trying to protect or guard something like food or a toy?  Was the animal fearful or threatened by you, another person or animal nearby? Was the animal fearful of something you were carrying or holding?  Was there a body part he/she did not like having touched or handled?  Is your pet stressed about something new in the environment?

3)   Come up with a game plan.  Once you isolate the trigger(s), first try to determine if these are situations that can be managed.  For example, telling strangers not to hover over your dog or to give your dog more space, or provide your dog a “safe zone” such as a gated area or room when guests come over. Then determine if you can work with your animal to change his/her perception of these triggers.   For example, if your dog does not like strangers reaching out their hands, ask strangers to stand at a distance your dog can handle and toss treats to the dog so that the dog learns that strangers are not so scary.   If your dog has a sensitive body part, determine if there is a physical injury or if your dog is ticklish.  Then try to teach your dog that brushing or handling is a positive experience.  See my videos on body handling.  If your pet seems to be guarding resources such as food bowls, people, sleeping places, toys or other objects, it is best to contact a certified trainer or behaviorist to work on a training plan with you as these behaviors can sometimes be tricky to deal with. 

4)   Become familiar with your pet’s body language.  Often there are signals that precede the growl.  For example, in dogs, the dog might suddenly go stiff or get very still.  You may notice your dog staring at you in a very direct manner. Identifying precursors to the growl may help you head off the behavior earlier in time. In addition, identifying early stress signals can help identify situations that make your dog uncomfortable.   See my article for a discussion on canine body language.  In addition, Here is a video of some common canine stress signals:



5)   Seek Professional Help.  If you are in doubt about what is triggering the behavior, if the behavior seems unpredictable or if you are unsure of how to handle your pet’s behavior, contact a certified trainer or behaviorist to help you develop a behavior modification program.  In some cases, severe aggression or guarding behavior is best handled with the help of a professional.  Make sure you choose someone who advocates methods based on positive reinforcement.  See my article on finding a  qualified dog trainer.

This dog is guarding an avocado
from one of the other dogs.

So, how did I resolve my parrot’s behavior?  I identified the trigger (does not like petting when things are in her mouth) and approached the issue as follows:

1)    Assess the behavior and my need to touch the bird in that context.  I made the assessment that I really do not need to pet her when she is busy doing something else like eating or fiddling with a toy. Would you like someone pawing at you when you are eating or concentrating on something else?  Instead, I reserved petting sessions for when she was relaxed and not occupied with something.

2)   Build a better bond through clicker training.  I worked on taming her further and building up more trust between us.  She was not fully hand-tamed so I worked on body handling and teaching her that I was not a threat.  I also did simple clicker-training tricks so that she would enjoy working with me.  Targeting my fingers was also a way of teaching her to interact with my fingers by tapping them (rather than nibbling).


3)   Teach an alternative behavior.  I taught her to drop objects (you can do this with a dog too).  So in the event I need to retrieve something out of her mouth, she will let go of it voluntarily.  See video of her retrieving and dropping an object.

4)   Set up a petting protocol.  I set up a petting protocol.  Parrots are not like dogs.  They are not really domesticated and they are prey animals so they are naturally skittish.  Before petting her, I would say, “can I pet you? and put my thumb and forefinger together much like I did with the targeting exercises in the vidoe.  If her pupils flashed or if she raised her feathers, I would leave her be.  If she was still relaxed, she got a pet and a treat.  This protocol achieved two objectives, it gave her a heads up that I am coming to pet her and it also set up a positive association with the words, “can I pet you” and the actions that followed (a head scratch which parrots love and a treat). Eventually the treat was faded out because the head scratch was nirvana for her. She got to the point that when I asked if I could pet her, she would bend her head over to receive a head scratch.  So she gave me an obvious signal that she wanted to be petted.  We essentially established a way of communicating so she would not be caught off guard and she received pets when she was ready and willing to receive them.
So, if you find yourself in a situation where your pet growls at you or somebody else, respect the growl and figure out how you can work with your pet in a productive manner.  We are not being permissive but acknowledging that there is a behavior that needs to be addressed.  It is better to address the behavior and its underlying cause in a proactive manner through behavior modification rather than try to put a band-aid on it and merely suppress its outward expression.

Respect my growl

Los Angeles Dog Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.com

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