Have Crate will Travel

Ten years ago, I took my Shiba Inu, Mitsu (then a 6 month old puppy) up the coast of California to attend a friend’s wedding in San Francisco. At that time, pet-friendly accommodations were few and far between and many of the accommodations were motel chains such as Best Western, Howard Johnson’s or the Oxford Suites. I had a great time with my puppy running along the beaches in Big Sur and Cambria and walking the streets of Ojai. It was a great socialization opportunity for my dog and this out-of-town trip helped her become a resilient and adaptable dog. Over the years she and I went to the Sierras and even Las Vegas. The Vegas strip was her favorite, she is partial to bright lights and chaos.

Flash forward ten years and another puppy. I decided to take Kiku and Mitsu for an out of town trip. Kiku, my Akita, had never been out of town and I was not sure how she would react to being in a strange place. But being a young dog, I thought the exposure would be good for her. Fortunately, in the last few years, the number of accommodations accepting pets has expanded tremendously giving people many options. In addition to hotel and motel chains there are a number of Bed and Breakfasts and vacation home rentals that allow pets. I settled on a mountain cottage in Julian, California. The dogs loved the wilderness and they adapted well.



Picture of the cottage we rented

What saved me on this trip (and every trip that I have taken with my dogs) was crate-training. So, in addition to all the other benefits that crate-training provides (see my previous blog on crate training) , traveling with your pet is another one on the list. I was able to load the dogs in my truck in their crates providing for a more secure ride. They slept most of the way and were comfortable.

The crate is also handy when you arrive to your destination. There is always a risk that a dog may forget housetraining in a strange place or that they may decide to gnaw on a piece of furniture. Having crate-trained dogs provides you with the peace-of-mind that you can leave your dogs unattended for short periods of time. It also provides them a secure, familiar place to sleep in when you are in a strange location. Moreover, owners of some establishments are more comfortable to rent a place to you if they know the dogs are crate-trained and therefore less likely to cause damage to their property.



Kiku and Mitsu await our arrival back at the cottage. Kiku has a water bottle attached to her crate and Mitsu has a water bowl.

In addition to bringing your dog’s crate here are some other tips to keep in mind:

1) Identification and Microchipping - Make sure your dog has a secure collar with I.D. Dogs can panic in unfamiliar locations and bolt. Microchipping is also critical if you frequently travel with your pet. Lost dogs can lose their collars and most shelters and veterinarians have scanning equipment.

2) Water bowls – dogs can get dehydrated during the car ride so stop every few hours to check on their water bowls. Better yet, teach your dog to drink from a water bottle (like the type rabbits drink out of) that hooks on to the crate. I taught my older dogs to drink out of a water bottle by putting peanut butter on the nozzle. My puppy did not need any prompting.

3) Vet information – Take the number of your veterinarian as well as the phone numbers of vets in the area where you will be staying.

4) Copies of shot records – sometimes you run into a situation where you cannot find pet friendly accommodations or hotels where you cannot leave your pet unattended. In such cases you may need to put your dog in daycare if you are going to a function or will need to leave your pet for an extended period of time. Day cares require shot records so it is helpful to have them handy in case you need to board your dog. Make sure your dog is current on vaccinations especially rabies if you are going to wilderness areas.

5) Cover for Crate – often I will bring extra blankets to cover the crates. Covering the crates can help quiet the dogs when they cannot settle down in a strange location. My dogs know that the blanket means they need to go to sleep.

6) Extra towels and brushes – in case your dog gets wet or dirty.

7) Flea, Tick and Heartworm Treatments– make sure your dogs are current with flea, tick and heartworm applications. Many mountainous areas and regions of the U.S. have ticks or mosquitoes that transmit heartworm. Do your research and protect your pet accordingly. Ask your veterinarian about the appropriate treatments to apply.

8) Finding Pet Friendly Accommodations – here are some of my favorite websites for finding pet-friendly accommodations:

http://www.bringfido.com/– nice search engine and photos of properties

http://www.dogfriendly.com/– this one has been around for a long time and has a good list of accommodations for hotels and restaurants.

http://www.vrbo.com/– provides list of vacation rentals if you would like to rent a home. Several dog friendly properties are available such as the one I rented in Julian.

Don’t sniff my butt- Reactive Dogs

Reactivity to other dogs is one of the more challenging behaviors to modify in dog training. It can be distressing and unnerving to have a dog that barks or lunges at other dogs. Dog-dog aggression is a common behavior, but how people deal with it can be drastically different.

Some owners fit their dogs with choke collars and try to “correct” reactive behaviors by yelling and/or jerking firmly on the leash. One owner that I encounter on my walks tries to suppress her dog’s reactivity by yelling at the dog (which can be heard a block away, by the way) and jerking on the dog’s choke collar. Several weeks later the dog still has a strong reaction to my dogs, even from across the street and the owner continues to scream in the dog’s face and jerk on the leash. One could imagine the stress this causes to the dog and it is hard to see how this actually changes the dog’s attitude towards other dogs.

Having Akitas and a Shiba Inu, I am all too familiar with owning breeds that have a tendency to be dog aggressive. My 12-year old rescue came to my home highly reactive to other dogs. Eventually, through training and gradual exposure to other dogs, he learned to become less reactive and walk calmly on a leash. My Akita puppy, now going through adolescence, is also being trained to react less to strange dogs. While she is friendly to dogs she knows and the dogs in her obedience classes, she shows anxiety when meeting strange dogs on the street. As part of her training, I am applying counter-conditioning techniques so that my dog will associate the presence of other dogs with positive experiences (play, verbal praise and/or treats). I know from experience that harsh physical corrections will not go very far with these independent, northern breeds. The process of counter-conditioning and desensitization can take time and requires a calm, cool demeanor, but studies have shown that this methodology is safer than dominance-based methods of dog training.

Earlier this year, researchers from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine found that aggressive dogs were more likely to respond aggressively when the training program involved “confrontational” techniques. Confrontational techniques included training methods such as the “alpha roll,” the “stare down,” grabbing the dog by the jowls, yelling and growling at the dog. The lead author of this article, Meghan Herron, noted, “this study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,” Herron cautions, “these techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.” http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/02/090217141540.htm. See also, Meghan E. Herron, Frances S. Shofera and Ilana R. Reisner, Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviors, J. Applied Animal Behavior Science, Vol. 117, Pgs. 47-54 (Feb 2009).

In a study released last May, the researchers from the University of Bristol’s Department of Clinical Veterinary Sciences reached similar conclusions. In this study, researchers concluded that there was little empirical evidence of wolf-like dominance hierarchies in dogs. One of the authors of the study noted, “the blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some innate desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous. It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs. It also leads to the use of coercive training techniques, which compromise welfare, and actually cause problem behaviours.” See http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090521112711.htm. See also, John W. S. Bradshaw, Emily J. Blackwell, Rachel A. Casey, Dominance in domestic dogs—useful construct or bad habit?, Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research, Vol. 4, Issue 3: 135-144 (May 2009).

The conclusions reached by these studies are not unique. In 2008, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) issued a position statement on the Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals. In this statement, the AVSAB similarly cautioned about risks involved with the application of dominance theory to address behavioral problems. Rather, the AVSAB recommends that veterinarians refer cases to trainers who advocate positive reinforcement, counter-conditioning, desensitization and other science-based methods.
See http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance%20statement.pdf.

The AVSAB also issued a position statement on the use of punishment in dog training. In this document, the AVSAB warns that punishment “should not be used as a first-line approach or early use treatment for behavioral problems.” Examples of punishment include choke collars, pinch/prong collars, electronic/shock collars, jerking on the leash and alpha rolls. The AVSAB cautions that the use of physical punishment or aversive methods can lead to adverse consequences such as owner-directed aggression and increasing fear responses in an already fearful animal. The AVSAB points out that while punishment may suppress the behavior, it does not address the underlying cause of the behavior. See http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/Combined_Punishment_Statements.pdf.

In the case of reactive dogs, physical corrections and/or harsh reprimands do not address the underlying cause of the behavior (i.e. fear, anxiety or aggression towards other dogs). The goal of training should be to address the underlying behavior. If your dog is exhibiting aggressive or reactive behavior towards other dogs, avoid applying physically coercive or punitive methods to subdue your dog. Contact a trainer or veterinary behaviorist to work with you and your dog to modify the dog’s behavior. Choose a person who is experienced and familiar with positive methods of dog training.

Los Angeles Dog Trainer

www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Mitsu hates having her butt sniffed by unfamiliar dogs but she has learned to tolerate dogs being in close proximity.

4th of July Safety Tips for your Dog

With 4th of July just around the corner, it is important to keep your pet safe and secure.   Many dogs are afraid of fireworks.  Here are some things to keep in mind to keep your pet safe this holiday:

* Avoid keeping your pet in the yard.  Fearful dogs will try to dig, jump or climb their way out of the yard to escape the noise.  Many dogs get lost and end up in the shelter this way. 

*Make sure that your pet has proper ID in the event that he/she gets lost. Consider microchipping your dog.

*Avoid the temptation to take your dog to fireworks shows or outdoors. A fearful dog could bolt and get lost. Fearful dogs can also get reactive and may react to people and other dogs around them. Play it safe, keep them at home.

*Keep your pets indoors and provide a secure place for your pet stay in.  This can be a crate or a quiet, pet-proofed room in your home that does not receive as much outside noise. Dogs can try to chew their way out of an area when scared so make sure it is a secure area.  Close your windows and front door to shut out outside noises.

*What if you have a new dog or puppy and this is their first 4th of July? Make it a fun time. During those hours when fireworks happen (usually 9 p.m. to midnight here in Los Angeles), play games with your dog. Play fetch or tug of war. Give your dog an interactive toy to play with or work on a Nina Ottoson interactive puzzle with your dog. Click here for examples. This will keep your dog's mind off the noises outside and on the games you are playing.  Here is an example of my dog working on a Tug-A-Jug, she is so preoccupied with working on this toy, outside noises are unlikely to distract her:



*Consider playing music or keep the T.V. on as background noise. There are music CDs that have been created specifically to calm dogs.  The following website, "Through a Dog's Ear" is an example.  Here is a link with some music samples: http://www.throughadogsear.com/samples.htm




*Alternative remedies:  For mild cases, some dogs respond well to flower essences and homeopathic remedies. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets is one of the older brands out there and can be found in natural pet stores: http://www.rescueremedy.com/pets/ .  For homeopathic remedies you can consult with a homeopathic veterinarian for suggestions and dosage instructions.



*Another calming product is Dog Appeasing Pheromone that can be sprayed on your dog's bedding or as a room atomizer.  It is usually sold in pet stores under the brand name "Comfort Zone." 



*Body Wraps:  some people have reported success with body wraps which in effect "swaddle" your dog.  In her book, "Help for Your Fearful Dog,"  Nicole Wilde discusses a variety of methods of doing this and the proper way of introducing your dog to a wrap.  In addition, there is a product called an "Anxiety Wrap" that is a body vest designed to achieve the same result.  However, you would need to first acclimate your dog to the vest before a storm or fireworks so your dog does not react negatively to wearing the vest.  So, this may be an option to consider if other methods do not work and you have time before next year's holiday to work with your dog on wearing this item.

 

*For severe cases talk to your vet:  For severe cases of anxiety or if your dog is at risk of injuring himself/herself, prescription medication may be necessary to keep your dog calm and safe during this holiday. In such cases,  it is best consult with your veterinarian before the holiday.



My akita has mild to moderate anxiety to fireworks. I make sure that he is in a pet-proofed room with the T.V. on and the windows closed. Sometimes I will distract my pet with toys and games he likes to play.

www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Applying Positive Training Techniques to Humans

Most of my private consultations involve dogs living in homes with children. After going over the benefits of reward-based training and how responsive dogs are to positive reinforcement, I get one of two responses from parents: “does this apply to children too?” or “you mean like how we raise our kids?”

A recently published article described how positive, reward-based training, which traditionally had been applied to marine mammals, could be applied in schools. One elementary school attempted to apply this program to see if it could reduce behavioral problems and fighting. By implementing this program, desired behavior was rewarded or encouraged while undesired behavior was ignored or redirected. The school reported a dramatic drop in the number of suspensions and fighting.

This is not the first article to address how marine mammal training can be applied to humans. Several years ago a humorous, yet instructive article came out in the New York Times which chronicled one woman’s experience applying exotic animal training to her marriage in an attempt to modify her husband’s less desirable habits. The husband in question left clothes on the floor and other undesirable habits. The author found, that the more she nagged, the more resentful her husband got. When she rewarded her husband (by showing affection or praise) whenever he put the clothes in the hamper, she found that he was more willing to keep the house clean.



While these articles address how positive training can be applied to humans, a more important question is: should our canine family members be treated differently than our human family members? While positive training is commonly used with exotic animals, physical punishment or coercion is still commonly used with canines, the species that has had a close relationship with humans for thousands of years. This begs the question: if you would not discipline your child using harsh methods, why should you treat your pet dog any differently?

New Group Dog Training Classes in June

Basic Obedience

We are happy to announce that we are now offering basic obedience training at Bam Bam & Friends Pet Boutique on 4311 Overland Ave in Culver City. We offer smaller class sizes and cover: sit, stay, down, come, go to your bed, wait, leave it and more. Classes are ongoing. Contact us for current schedule.

Click here for more details.



Puppy Socialization


Now offering informal group classes where puppies receive some basic training and lots of socialization with strangers and other puppies in a supervised setting during your puppy’s critical socialization period. Contact us for current schedule and registration.

Click here for more details.

Poisonous plants - what to do

For pet lovers, a site that must be bookmarked: ASPCA's Poison Control Center. If you have ever wondered whether your pet ate something poisonous or noxious, this website contains a list of plants and substances to stay away from. It also contains helpful tips on what to do if you suspect that your animal has been poisoned.

ASPCA POISON CONTROL CENTER


QUESTION OF THE WEEK: WHAT IS THE STRANGEST THING YOUR PET HAS EVER EATEN?

Now Offering Group Classes!

In addition to our private classes, we are now offering group classes at Bam Bam & Friends in Culver City. Bam Bam & Friends is a great pet boutique offering natural pet foods and treats as well as pet accessories.



If you are interested, in group training, feel free to contact me at info@pawsitivefeedback.com.

Happy Training!

Dorna

To Crate or Not to Crate

Last week I attended a talk at a pet store to hear another trainer speak. One of the attendees was having problems with house training as well as some other behavioral issues and the speaker asked her whether the dog was crate-trained. The pet owner reacted very strongly to the thought of crate-training her dog. She felt that it was cruel to put her dog in a cage. This is not an unusual reaction as many people are not familiar with crate training.

Crate training can accomplish a number of goals. It is a great house training tool especially for puppies. It is a place for your dog to sleep in and to find respite when things are a little too hectic for them. For puppies and adolescent dogs, it is a management tool to keep them confined for short periods of time if you are not available to keep an eye over them.

Dogs should not be crated for more than 3-4 hours during the day while you are gone. If you must leave a dog for more that amount of time and the dog is still learning his/her house manners or still in that chewing phase, consider gating off your kitchen or washroom with a baby-gate and leave the crate in this area with the door open so the dog can freely go in and out of the crate. Crating the dog during bedtime is fine because it corresponds to the dog's normal sleeping cycle. For young puppies that are still being house trained, you will need to check on them during the night to make sure they do not need to go to the bathroom.

Now, I am not dogmatic about crate training. I have had (and still have) dogs that were never crate-trained. However, these dogs had several things in common: they tended to be older rescues, were already potty-trained, had excellent house manners and were beyond the chewing stage. So, these were dogs that did not need supervision and management. In such cases, baby gates are an option for confinement, if necessary. In addition, crating is not a panacea for dogs with severe separation anxiety or fearfulness. For such dogs, you should consult a professional for help.

Nonetheless, I feel that if you are getting a puppy, you might as well start off with crate-training because helps with house training and the puppy can always get more freedom as she/he gets older. You will often find as crate-trained puppies become adults, they will voluntarily go into their crate when they are tired, not feeling well or need some space. My 15 month old dog just recently earned her big girl privileges and has been allowed to periodically sleep in the living room overnight with the crate door open. Often when I wake up in the morning, I find that she has gone right back into her crate to sleep. To her, it is a place of refuge, her den. Here is a picture of her sleeping in her crate, even when the door is wide open.




I don't think Kiku thinks her crate is such a bad place, do you?

So, the poll for this week is: Is your dog crate-trained? Answer the poll on the right-hand side of this page.

Using Life Rewards To Reduce Reliance on Food Rewards

You reach that stage in training your dog when you have been using food treats to teach a dog a new behavior and it is time to fade out the reliance on food treats. Your dog knows the behavior, knows the word that goes along with the behavior (i.e. the cue or command) and performs the behavior reliably. So, how do you fade out reliance on treats? One way is to become a human slot machine and make it unpredictable as to when the dog gets a food reward and when the dog receives praise and petting. We all know how motivating slot machines can be. I always make sure that the times my dog does not receive a food reward for performing the behavior correctly, that I reinforce the behavior with effusive petting and praise. During this process, I stop using bait bags or fanny packs because dogs at this point already associate the bait bag with training sessions and essentially view the bait bag as a doggie vending machine. Instead, I will hide treats in my pockets or put them in various locations in the house where the dog can’t reach. In other words, I make it unpredictable as to when and where a food treat will come from.

There is another method of weaning dogs off food rewards that many people don’t take advantage of and it is a very powerful method of training dogs without treats. It is using life rewards as the motivator. Life rewards are activities that the dog naturally likes to do. A life reward can be going out for a walk, going outside in the back yard to look for squirrels, meeting another dog, or playing a game like fetch.

For example, before you take your dog out for a walk (life reward), ask your dog to sit or lie down before putting on the leash. My dogs have learned that sitting quickly will get them out the door that much faster. When you want to play fetch or tug, ask the dog to perform a trick like “go to your bed” or “sit.” Some dogs are very toy motivated and this is a great way to reinforce behaviors. All of these activities can be motivating for a dog and your dog will perform the requested behavior to get the life reward. Every dog has a different motivator or life reward and your job is to figure out what that is.

Sometimes, even your laughter and effusive praise alone are motivating for a dog especially when it is coupled with a natural behavior or tendency. There is one trick that I have taught my dogs without the use of food and that is to shake hands. I own akitas and a shiba which are part of the so-called Northern breed group (Akitas, Shibas, Huskies, Malamutes etc). One of the characteristics of this group is that they use their paws a lot. So, capitalizing on the breed’s natural tendencies, I attached a verbal cue (the word “shake”) to the pawing behavior and rewarded my dogs with verbal praise by being very enthusiastic whenever they offered their paw to me.

Recently, I taught my Akita puppy to run through my legs and sit underneath me whenever I said the phrase, “Where’s Kiku.” I used a treat as a lure to guide her through my legs and then asked her to sit to teach her entire chain of behaviors. Pretty soon, I noticed that she was performing the behavior with unusual speed and reliability, even from long distances. In fact, she performed this trick with even more speed and reliability than for just sitting directly in front of me or in the heel position. When you think about it, it is pretty unnatural for a dog to go through your legs and sit directly underneath you. I realized that because this trick was so cute, she would get a huge reaction when she performed it correctly. After all, sitting is so boring but when your dog runs between your legs from 10 feet away and sits, now that is exciting. Every time she did it correctly, I would start cracking up and hugging her. When she performed this trick in group classes or in front of an audience, people would start clapping and laughing. Kiku’s response demonstrates the importance of verbal praise and petting. For many dogs, this is a life reward. Kiku, in particular, is very responsive to human laughter and gets very excited when people laugh or giggle.

Here is a picture of Kiku performing the trick and you can see from the look on her face that she is reacting to the laughter from the photographer who thought this was the cutest thing ever.


The moral of this story is to use life rewards to reinforce the tricks you have taught your pet whenever possible and as another method of diminishing the use of food treats. Don’t underestimate the value of the human laughter, verbal praise and petting as a life reward for your pet. For many dogs this can be motivating. Sometimes we get so engrossed in the mechanics of training and how our dog is performing that we are too stingy with our verbal praise and petting.

Here is my question to you: what life rewards does your dog find motivating and how do you use these motivators to train your dog?

Happy training and remember to give your dog pawsitive feedback!

Los Angeles Dog Trainer:  www.pawsitivefeedback.com